All American Quilt-Along September 14 2021 26 Comments

Girl Next Door QAL - Recap March 02 2021 1 Comment

Girl Next Door - Month 10 - Putting It Together March 01 2021 2 Comments

IT IS A PREREQUISITE OF MAKING THIS QUILT THAT YOU HAVE A COPY OF THE PATTERN GIRL NEXT DOOR BY LOUISE PAPAS FOR THE JEN KINGWELL DESIGN COLLECTIVE.

Charlotte (@Kirkenoll) here.  

Time has flown by, and we are now in our final month of the Girl Next Door Quilt Along.  In this post, I'll share with you tips and tricks for piecing the sections together and adding the borders.  I will also take you through my process for quilting and binding.

Be sure to post a photo of your finished quilt top using the hashtag #GirlNextDoorQAL on Facebook or Instagram.

Quilt Assembly

Follow the Quilt Assembly instructions in the pattern to put this medallion quilt together.  For the shop sample, we chose to use a light yellow and white stripe fabric for our borders.   I've also seen bright and bold borders which are fun too and provide a nice pop of color.

The Quilt Assembly section starts on very bottom of page 15 of the pattern.

The pattern gives you the exact sizes for each small border strip. But as I’ve discussed previously, I like to cut the pieces bigger and then trim down to exact size.

As you finish piecing each round of the medallion, give it a final press on a fluffy towel using just a little Magic Sizing to flatten all the seams nicely.

Previously while piecing each block, I verified the block size with the pattern. Cut the small border strips slightly longer and lay them out flat in the middle of the block folding back each strip along the edges.

Then line up these folded edges along the correct edge placement on the block and pin in several places easing fabric as needed. If one side is a bit bigger, then put that side toward the fee dogs when sewing which will help with the easing. Sew and press seams to small border then square the corners. This method also avoids sewing wavy borders by making sure the center matches the edges. Repeat this same method for all of the small strip borders.

Additional Piecing Tips:

• Border 1: When sewing the bottom of the picket fence blocks to the small border, sew with the side that has the most opposing seams facing you so that you can make sure you keep them flat and open.
• Border 2: Match the girlies holding hands and bottom of dresses. Make sure all the girlies are facing the center (don’t ask :-).
• Border 3: T113 joining block template should be 6.5 inches x 1 inch.
• Try to keep the house roof pointy when adding the joining blocks and top rectangles.
• Press seams toward joining blocks and rectangles to reduce bulk. Check for shadowing.
• The pattern drawing shows roof points on the center shop but there won’t be points like that.

Yippee your top is all pieced!

Trim loose threads on the back and check for shadowing on the front.

Quilting

It was my pleasure to Big Stitch Hand Quilt the girlies using Sue Spargo - Eleganza Perle Cotton Size 8.

If you are interested in this method, read my Big Stitch Quilting Tutorial.

I used Quilter’s Dream Cotton Request White Batting to match the background fabric. Request is their thinnest cotton and drapes wonderfully. I also enjoy the Dream Wool if you would prefer that puffier look and feel.

Backing is a hot topic - use anything or get fancy? The first backing I tried was a bold print. It was really lovely but showed through to the front - oh no! Personally, I like to piece my backs for extra interest and to use up my fabric stash (I have a big stash). I wanted my hand stitching to show so I picked out all the light grey solids I had and pieced a big enough piece - it worked out great.

Baste as you desire. I baste on a covered 4x8 foot insulation board on my pool table using 505 basting spray. If you use spray, only spray the batting and not very heavily. Then press to set the glue after spraying on the front and especially the back smoothing it out from the center. Flip it back and forth several times to make sure it’s all stuck down with no puckers. Measure again to make sure it’s all squared up and block if necessary. Especially check that those corners are glued down and square.

Thread - a very important decision! I adore Sue Spargo - Eleganza Perle Cotton Size 8. Standard Perle cotton is good but Eleganza is processed so it doesn’t fray as much and just glides through your quilt layers. There are so many colors to choose from and they are just lovely!  I chose neutrals for the main areas and a few colors that matched the fabrics for details.

Determining the Quilting Plan is a very personal process. First, I put the quilt on my design wall and then spend some time looking at the whole quilt. Next, I do some sketching on a line drawing of the quilt - see your pattern. For this quilt, I decided to use the ¼” seam lines shown thru the white background as my theme. Two perks are that you have a stitching guide in those areas, and once it’s quilted, those seams won’t be as noticeable. To mark the ¼” lines that I couldn’t see clearly, I first tried a Hera marker to make a crease in the fabric. If that didn’t show enough, I used a chalk liner. The following pictures are details of how I quilted each block. My goal was to keep it simple but make sure the coverage was even. I didn’t want the quilting to be too dense because this is a quilt that should be snuggled, and I wanted it to be soft. I’m not going to kid you...this is a big quilt 72 inches by 72 inches.  It took a fair amount of my time (don’t ask how long :-) to hand quilt, but I really enjoy the process and get to binge watch Netflix at the same time. As always “quilt as desired”.

All Finished!

Quilting Details

For the center school house block, I followed my plan and stitched all around the house and then around each roof, window and door. I also stitched all around the outside of the block. I considered doing some stitching in the background but decided it wasn’t needed.

I wanted the small border strips to get noticed so I double ¼” seam quilted them. When I do the stitching fairly close, I like to line up the stitches so it looks neatly done. It's not a requirement, of course, but it looks nice that way and isn’t hard to do.

Figuring out how to simply stitch these picket fence borders was not simple! After several more complicated drawings, I came up with this simple design stitching the background vs the pickets and was able to continue that stitching all the way down the row.

I stitched around flower corner block and echoed the pieced flower, stem, leaves and center square.

The girlies were a little more complicated to figure out how to quilt simply.

1. First, I stitched around the heads and top of the arms all along the whole row.
2. Then I stitched around the bottom of the arms, dress and legs all along the whole row.
3. Finally, I stitched a triangle inside each dress with matching color thread to keep the dress from poofing out.

Like the flower corner block, I stitched around the whole block and echoed around the dog.  I also added matching double stitching on the collar to stabilize the dog and because it looked cute.

Like the dog corner block, I stitched around the whole cat block and echoed around the cat.  Similarly, I added matching double stitching on the collar to stabilize and embellish.

For the shop block, I stitched around the shop and around the inside of the roof and outside the window and door.

For the house block, I stitched around the house and around the inside of the roof and outside the door.

I stitched around tree corner block and echoed the pieced tree and trunk and twice around inside of tree to give it texture and to keep it from poofing.

This is what the back looks like all done. Notice how the quilting is mostly evenly distributed without any big poofy sections. Not perfect of course, but if your quilts are perfect how will anyone know it was made with love by a human hand? 

Binding

Jen sent me this really cute big dot fabric (Circulus by Jen Kingwell for Moda Fabrics - Charcoal) for the binding, and it’s just perfect. I’ve started making my bindings ½” and big stitching them closed. I love how solid the binding feels, how it looks and how easy it is to do. I considered the washability at first, but I made a few charity/baby quilts and washed them with no problems.

1. Cut 3” binding strips for the whole perimeter of your quilt.
2. Press strips in half and sew a standard mitered binding but with ½” seam.
3. Roll the binding over the ½” seam and make sure it goes past the seam line so the big stitching from the front will catch the back. I iron ¼” Steam-A-Seam fusible to keep it in place while I stitch, but some people use clips or pins.
4. Miter the corners in the standard way, but they will be ½” also.

That’s all folks! I’ve never written a QAL like this before, and it has been fun seeing what everyone has created during these months. I hope you have found the rotary cutting measurements and/or tips useful. Please keep sewing and finish this sweet quilt for yourself or someone special. Please also post pictures of your quilt tops or quilts!  Be sure to use #GirlNextDoorQAL.

Girl Next Door - Month 9 - Tree Block February 01 2021

IT IS A PREREQUISITE OF MAKING THIS BLOCK THAT YOU HAVE A COPY OF THE PATTERN GIRL NEXT DOOR BY LOUISE PAPAS FOR THE JEN KINGWELL DESIGN COLLECTIVE.

Charlotte (@Kirkenoll) here. 

“Keep a green tree in your heart and perhaps a singing bird will come.” - Chinese Proverb.

The Tree Block is the last month in the series of Girl Next Door blocks.  These tree blocks go together relatively easy. Below you will find tips to ensure a perfect fit next month when we put everything together.  In the meantime, may you enjoy the happy music of singing birds!

Each month, I will share the fabric we used at Red Thread Studio and then layout the cutting checklist.  I have also provided cutting tabs that you can download and print out.  These are useful to keep track of the various pieces used in this scrappy quilt.  At the end, I will also give some useful tips that I encountered when piecing the sample.

Feel free to comment here, on Instagram or in the Girl Next Door Quilt-Along Facebook group with any questions.  Don't forget to share your photos of your work in progress either on Instagram or Facebook each week!  Just use the hashtag #GirlNextDoorQAL.

Choose Your Fabric

We used dark and medium greens leftover from the Picket Fence and Flower blocks.  These worked best and provided the most contrast against our light background.

Cutting Checklist - make four 8 ½”  x 8 ½” blocks

Tree Fabric - cut for each tree block  

• 2 x T106 - use template - 2   x 6 1/4
• 1 x T107 - 6 ¼  x 3 ¼

Tree Trunk Fabric - cut for each tree block

• 1 x T108 - 1 ½  x 2 ¾

Background Fabric - white main background fabric - cut for each tree block

Cut bigger to make the block larger then trim down to exact size - 8 ½”  x 8 ½”.

• 4 x T109 - 2 ~ 2 ½  x 2 ½ - cut on the diagonal to make triangles
• 2 x T110 - 4  x 4 - cut on the diagonal to make two triangles
• 1 x T111 - 2  x 2 - cut on the diagonal to make two triangles (save extra for other trees)
• 3 x T112 - 2 ~ 5 ½  x 5 ½ - cut on the diagonal to make three triangles (save extra for other trees)

If you wish you can cut up tabs and place with your cut fabric pieces.  See attached Cutting Tabs. 

Follow Pattern Assembly instructions to piece four tree blocks

• At first I made the tree pieces the same fabric but I changed my mind and made them scrappy instead. Dark/medium green looks better than light to contrast with the background.
• I made the background pieces bigger to make sections/block larger then cut down to exact size.
• When sewing the green tree pieces together, pin the two edges with mitered seams pointing to the corner of the tree center piece.

• When blocks are completely pieced give them a final press on a fluffy towel using just a little Magic Sizing to flatten all the seams nicely.
• Each tree block should measure 8 ½”  x 8 ½” so trim to get that final perfect size to fit in corners. I used the trunk bottom triangle as a starting point and made sure the tree was straight by lining up the diagonal ruler marking thru the center and making sure each tree side was the same and straight.

Girl Next Door - Month 8 - Shop Block January 01 2021 2 Comments

IT IS A PREREQUISITE OF MAKING THIS BLOCK THAT YOU HAVE A COPY OF THE PATTERN GIRL NEXT DOOR BY LOUISE PAPAS FOR THE JEN KINGWELL DESIGN COLLECTIVE.

Charlotte (@Kirkenoll) here.  We are in the home stretch now that your 24 houses are done.  This month we have four shops.  You can choose to join them to your houses or wait for the final month where I share tips and tricks for joining the sections.

Each month, I will share the fabric we used at Red Thread Studio and then layout the cutting checklist.  I have also provided cutting tabs that you can download and print out.  These are useful to keep track of the various pieces used in this scrappy quilt.  At the end, I will also give some useful tips that I encountered when piecing the sample.

Feel free to comment here, on Instagram or in the Girl Next Door Quilt-Along Facebook group with any questions.  Don't forget to share your photos of your work in progress either on Instagram or Facebook each week!  Just use the hashtag #GirlNextDoorQAL.

Choose Your Fabric

For the shops, we used plaids for the roofs and florals for the buildings.  I snuck in a few fussy cuts from my personal stash for the windows.  You can also search your stash for fun fussy cutting possibilities.

Cutting Checklist - make 4  8 ½” x 8 ½” shop blocks

Cut for each 8 ½” x 8 ½” shop block:

Shop Front Fabric

• 1 x T93 - 1 ¼  x 7 ½
• 1 x T94 - 1  x 4 ¼
• 2 x T95 - 1 ½  x 4 ¼
• 1 x T96 - 1 ¼  x 3 ¼
• 1 x T97 - 1 ¼  x 4 ¼
• 1 x T98 - 1 ¼  x 1

Assorted Prints

• 1 x T100 - 2 ¼  x 4 ¼ - door
• 1 x T101 - 1 ¼  x 3 ¼ - step
• 1 x T102 - use template - 2 ¼  x 8 ½ - roof - may want to fussy cut - plaids are fun

Window Fabric

• 1 x T99 - 3 ¼w  x 3 ½h - may want to fussy cut something interesting - maybe a favorite from your own stash

Background Fabric - white main background fabric

• 2 x T104 - 2  x 2 - cut on the diagonal to make two triangles
• 2 x T103 - 1 x 5 ¾ - might want to cut bigger ( 2” vs 1”) then trim block down to exact size
• 1 x T105 - 1 ½ x 8 ½  - might want to cut bigger ( 2 ½” vs 1 ½”) then trim block down to exact size

Shop Cutting Tabs 

If you wish you can cut up tabs and place with your cut fabric pieces.  See attached Cutting Tabs. 

Follow Pattern Assembly instructions to piece shop blocks

• Fabric choices: It’s fun picking out window, door and roof fabrics for this block. Might want to fussy cut something fun in the windows for extra interest. Maybe a favorite fabric from your stash.
• Each block should measure 8 ½” x 8 ½”. Trim or block to size as necessary.
• When blocks are completely pieced give it a final press on a fluffy towel using just a little Magic Sizing to flatten all the seams nicely.

Girl Next Door - Month 7 - House Block December 01 2020

IT IS A PREREQUISITE OF MAKING THIS BLOCK THAT YOU HAVE A COPY OF THE PATTERN GIRL NEXT DOOR BY LOUISE PAPAS FOR THE JEN KINGWELL DESIGN COLLECTIVE.

Charlotte (@Kirkenoll) here.  It's hard to believe we are already in Month 7 of this quilt along.  While we are nearing the end, there is a lot to do this month -- 24 houses, to be exact. 

Each month, I will share the fabric we used at Red Thread Studio and then layout the cutting checklist.  I have also provided cutting tabs that you can download and print out.  These are useful to keep track of the various pieces used in this scrappy quilt.  At the end, I will also give some useful tips that I encountered when piecing the sample.

Feel free to comment here, on Instagram or in the Girl Next Door Quilt-Along Facebook group with any questions.  Don't forget to share your photos of your work in progress either on Instagram or Facebook each week!  Just use the hashtag #GirlNextDoorQAL.

Choose Your Fabric

For the houses, we included some black, brown and grey florals along with stripes and plaids to incorporate with the bright florals and prints used for the girlies.  I had fun searching for fussy cuts to use in the windows.  Get creative!

Cutting Checklist - make 24  8” x 6 ½” house blocks - 6 houses in each border side 

Cut for each 8” x 6 ½” House Block:

House Fabric

• 4 x T83 - 1 ½  x 2
• 2 x T84 - 2  x 3 ½
• 1 x T86 - 1 ¼  x 8 - cut first

Assorted Prints - - may want to fussy cut some of them

• 1 x T85 - 2  x 3 ½ - door
• 1 x T87 - use template - 8  x 2 ¾ - roof - plaids are fun
• 1 x T91 - use template - 1 ½  x 2 - chimney

Window Fabric

• 2 x T83 - 1 ½  x 2 - may want to fussy cut some of them

Background Fabric - white main background fabric

• 1 x T88 - use template* - 4 ½  x 3
• 1 x T89 - use template* - 1 ¾  x 3 1/2
• 1 x T90 - 1 ½  x 1
• 1 x T92 - use template* - 3  x 1

*Note: I cut strips then sub-cut using the templates.

House Cutting Tabs 

If you wish you can cut up tabs and place with your cut fabric pieces.  See attached Cutting Tabs. 

Follow Pattern Assembly instructions to piece 24 house blocks

• Fabric choices: It’s fun picking out window, door, roof and chimney fabrics for this block. Might want to fussy cut something fun in some of the windows for extra interest.
• Make sure both window sections are arranged in the correct direction. Wondering why I’m saying that - I hate ripping out seams :-)
• Best to sew T86 seam with opposing seams facing up so you can see them while you sew.
• Then press both T86 seams toward that block to reduce bulk.
• These houses sew up easily but piece carefully because there is no easy way to make block bigger to cut down.  Try to make one block first to see how close you are.  Each block should measure 8” x 6 ½”.  Because we are making 24 of these houses, I made a clear template with those measurements so I could trim or block to size as necessary.  If you wish, make a horizontal line 2½” from top to match up to roof line. It’s not really necessary because there is no matching here like the girls' hands.
• Try to keep the roof top and side pointy if you wish - no stress if not perfect!

• Like the girls, making 24 house blocks can be a daunting task if you do them one at a time. I made one to understand the process and made sure it ended up the correct size. Then to make the rest, I cut all the fabric pieces and positioned them for sewing. That way I could pin and assembly line chain piece each section at one time following the pattern instructions and get them done much faster. Make sure you take pictures when you have the blocks organized so once you start chain piecing you can refer back if needed.
• Also keep in mind that the final construction includes a thin joiner strip between each house and a larger strip at the tops of three house groups so adjustments can be made later to get them all to fit horizontally and vertically. 
• When blocks are completely pieced give it a final press on a fluffy towel using just a little Magic Sizing to flatten all the seams nicely.

Girl Next Door - Month 6 - Cat Block November 01 2020

IT IS A PREREQUISITE OF MAKING THIS BLOCK THAT YOU HAVE A COPY OF THE PATTERN GIRL NEXT DOOR BY LOUISE PAPAS FOR THE JEN KINGWELL DESIGN COLLECTIVE.

Charlotte (@Kirkenoll) here.  With a few watch outs (listed below), this month's block is the cat's meow and relatively easy to make!  I can just imagine our feline friends perched at the windows of the lovely houses we will make next month or perhaps outside the shops scheduled for month 8.

Each month, I will share the fabric we used at Red Thread Studio and then layout the cutting checklist.  I have also provided cutting tabs that you can download and print out.  These are useful to keep track of the various pieces used in this scrappy quilt.  At the end, I will also give some useful tips that I encountered when piecing the sample.

Feel free to comment here, on Instagram or in the Girl Next Door Quilt-Along Facebook group with any questions.  Don't forget to share your photos of your work in progress either on Instagram or Facebook each week!!  Just use the hashtag #GirlNextDoorQAL.

Choose Your Fabric

We chose horizontal stripes for these kitties along with floral collars, but plaids, dots or other geometric shapes would work nicely as well.

Cutting Checklist - make two 9” x 9” blocks

Cat Fabric - cut for each cat block  

• 1 x T70 - use template - might want to fussy cut - 4  x 4 - body
• 1 x T71 - 1  x 4 - tail
• 1 x T72 - 1  x 1 ¼ - tail top
• 2 x T73 - use template - might want to fussy cut - 1 ½   x 1 ½ - ears
• 1 x T74 - 1 ½ x 2 ¼ - head

Collar Fabric - cut for each cat block

• 1 x T75 - 1  x 2 ¼

Background Fabric - white main background fabric - cut for each cat block

• 1 x T75 - 1  x 2 ¼
• 1 x T76 - use template* - 3  x 2 ½
• 1 x T77 - 1 ½   x 1 ¼
• 1 x T78 - 2 x 2
• 1 x T79 - use template* - 2 ½  x 1

Cut 4 corners (T80, T81, 2xT82) bigger to make the block larger then trim down to exact size - 9” x 9”.

• 1 x T80 - use template* - 5 x 5 - make block edge longer to cut down
• 1 x T81 - use template* - 5 x 5 - make block edge longer to cut down - same template as T80
• 2 x T82 - 8  x 8 - cut on the diagonal to make two triangles 

* trace these pieces using a light box or up against sunny window if you wish

Cat Cutting Tabs 

If you wish you can cut up tabs and place with your cut fabric pieces.  See attached Cutting Tabs. 

Follow Pattern Assembly instructions to piece two cat blocks

• So cute with the stripe fabric and flower collars.
• If using stripe fabric careful how you cut for piecing. The ears need to be reversed so can’t do a triangle diagonal cut.
• When sewing background T76 to T70 body make sure the shorter end (2 ½) of the background triangle is at the top of the cat body. Ask me how I know the other way isn’t correct?  Sometimes I pin the ¼” seam to test the final result before sewing. Not this time of course so I had to do a bit of unsewing :-)
• Match collar seam to body and then head.
• I made the 4 corners (T80, T81, 2xT82) bigger to piece block larger then cut down to exact size.
• When sewing the corners try to keep those cat ears pointy if you wish - no stress :-)
• When blocks are completely pieced give it a final press on a fluffy towel using just a little Magic Sizing to flatten all the seams nicely.
• Each cat block should measure 9” square so trim to get that final perfect size to fit in corners.

Girl Next Door - Month 5 - Dog Block October 01 2020

IT IS A PREREQUISITE OF MAKING THIS BLOCK THAT YOU HAVE A COPY OF THE PATTERN GIRL NEXT DOOR BY LOUISE PAPAS FOR THE JEN KINGWELL DESIGN COLLECTIVE.

Charlotte (@Kirkenoll) here.  Who here has fur babies in their studio?  Now you can add a canine to yours and next month a feline.

Each month, I will share the fabric we used at Red Thread Studio and then layout the cutting checklist.  I have also provided cutting tabs that you can download and print out.  These are useful to keep track of the various pieces used in this scrappy quilt.  At the end, I will also give some useful tips that I encountered when piecing the sample.

Feel free to comment here, on Instagram or in the Girl Next Door Quilt-Along Facebook group with any questions.  Don't forget to share your photos of your work in progress either on Instagram or Facebook each week for a chance a monthly prize!  Just use the hashtag #GirlNextDoorQAL.

Choose Your Fabric

Stripes and Plaids work well for these adorable pups!  

Cutting Checklist - make two 9” x 9” blocks

Dog Fabric - cut for each dog block

• 1 x T50 - use template - might want to fussy cut - 3 ½  x 5 ½ - body
• 2 x T51 - 2 ¼   x 2 ¼ - cut on the diagonal - big leg part
• 2 x T52 - 1 ½   x 1 ½ - cut on the diagonal - small leg part
• 1 x T53 - use template - might want to fussy cut - 2 ½  x 3 - head - nose end should not be white
• 2 x T54 - 1 ¼   x 1 ¼ - cut on the diagonal - tail and ear - fussy cut mostly solid parts

Collar Fabric - cut for each dog block

• 1 x T55 - 1  x 2 ¼

Background Fabric - white main background fabric - cut for each dog block

• 1 x T56 - 1  x 1
• 1 x T57 - 4 ¼   x 4 ¼ - cut on the diagonal to make two triangles
• 1 x T58 - use template* - 3  x 5
• 1 x T59 - use template* - 1 ½  x 5 ¼
• 1 x T60 - use template* - 1 ¼  x 5
• 1 x T61 - 1 ⅞   x 1 ⅞ - cut on the diagonal to make two triangles
• 1 x T62 - use template* - 3  x 1 ½
• 1 x T63 - use template* - 1 ½  x 2 ½
• 1 x T64 - use template* -  2 x 3

Cut the 4 corner triangles (T65, T66, T67, T68) bigger to make the block larger then trim down to exact size - 9” x 9”.

• 4 x T65 - 6  x 6 - cut on the diagonal to make eight triangles

* trace these pieces using a light box or up against sunny window if you wish

Dog Cutting Tabs 

If you wish you can cut up tabs and place with your cut fabric pieces.  See attached Cutting Tabs. 

Follow Pattern Assembly instructions to piece dog blocks

• It seems like it takes forever to cut his block out, especially the white background pieces. The good news is it pieces together quick and easy then looks great!
• Match dog head/collar section to dog body.
• I made the 4 corner triangles (T65, T66, T67, T68) bigger to piece the block larger then cut down to exact size.
• When sewing the corners triangles be careful to keep those dog leg pointy.
• When blocks are completely pieced give it a final press on a fluffy towel using just a little Magic Sizing to flatten all the seams nicely.
• Each dog block should measure 9” square so will need to trim to get that final perfect size to fit in those corners.

Girl Next Door - Month 4 - Girl Block September 01 2020 3 Comments

IT IS A PREREQUISITE OF MAKING THIS BLOCK THAT YOU HAVE A COPY OF THE PATTERN GIRL NEXT DOOR BY LOUISE PAPAS FOR THE JEN KINGWELL DESIGN COLLECTIVE.

Charlotte (@Kirkenoll) here.  Are you ready to step back into your childhood?  There is a good chance you played with paper dolls when you were young.  

To play paper dolls, a little girl only needed some paper and a pair of scissors.  So instead, get out your fabric and a rotary cutter.  This month we are working on the Girl Block.  Now, let's play!

We've also added some additional tips and ideas that came from participants of the first QAL that you may enjoy.....read all the way to the end!

Each month, I will share the fabric we used at Red Thread Studio and then layout the cutting checklist.  I have also provided cutting tabs that you can download and print out.  These are useful to keep track of the various pieces used in this scrappy quilt.  At the end, I will also give some useful tips that I encountered when piecing the sample.

Feel free to comment here, on Instagram or in the Girl Next Door Quilt-Along Facebook group with any questions.  Don't forget to share your photos of your work in progress either on Instagram or Facebook. Just use the hashtag #GirlNextDoorQAL.

Choose Your Fabric

For the background fabric, we chose various light to medium-light fabrics to alternate so the blocks don’t blend from one block to another.  Also, be careful if using directional fabric for the background. We made sure that the dress, legs, skin and hair fabrics would contrast with the background fabric so each girl can be seen clearly.  I also choose fabric for the dresses that I could fussy cut.

Cutting Checklist - make 24 6 ½” x 9” girl blocks - 6 girls in each border side

Cut for each 6 ½” x 9”girl block:

Dress Fabric

• 1 x T39 - use template - 3 ¾  x @4 ½ - dress - may want to fussy cut
• 1 x T40 - 1 ¼  x 5 ½ - sleeves - may want to fussy cut

Face/Hand Skin Fabric

• 1 x T47 - 2  x 2 - face
• 2 x T48 - 1 ¼  x 1 - hands

Leg Fabric

• 2 x T49 - 1 ¼  x 2 ½ - legs - striped fabric looks cute

Hair Fabric

• 2 x T46 - 2  x 2 - cut on the diagonal to make two triangles
• 2 x T48 - 1 ¼  x 1

Background Fabric - white main background fabric

• 1 x T41 and 1 x T41 in reverse - use template - 3 ¾  x @3
• 2 x T42 - 2 ½  x 2 ½
• 2 x T43 - 1  x 2 ½
• 2 x T44 - 1 ¾   x 3
• 4 x T45 - 1 ¼  x 1 ½
• 2 x T46 - 2  x 2 - cut on the diagonal to make two triangles

Girl Cutting Tabs 

If you wish you can cut up tabs and place with your cut fabric pieces.  See attached Cutting Tabs. 

Follow Pattern Assembly instructions to piece girl blocks

• Fabric choices: for background pick various light to medium-light fabrics that you can alternate the blocks so they don’t blend from block to block.  Take care if selecting a directional or geometric fabric as you will need to be mindful of how they are pieced together.  Dress, legs, skin and hair fabrics should contrast with background so girl can be seen clearly.
• After you piece the hair and background triangles around the face you may need to trim that unit before you add the ponytails.
• Try to keep the face points pointy if you wish - no stress if not perfect!
• Match bottom of hair ponytail to face.
• Try to piece carefully because there is no easy way to make block bigger to cut down.  Try to make one block first to see how close you are.  Each block should measure 6 ½’  x 9”.  Trim or block to size as necessary.
• Be aware that girls are holding hands so you want to match them.  To make sure that happens make a 6 ½’  x 9” clear template with a line across it at 2 ¾” where the top of the arm/hand should be, then trimmed the block to be exactly that size with the hands in the exact same place.

• There are 24 girl blocks to make which can be a daunting task if you do them one at a time.  I made these two to understand the process and make sure they ended up the correct size.  Then to make the rest I cut all the fabric pieces and positioned them for sewing.  That way I could pin and assembly line chain piece each section at one time following the pattern instructions and get them done much faster.  Make sure you take pictures when you have the blocks organized so once you start chain piecing you can refer back if needed.
• When blocks are completely pieced give it a final press on a fluffy towel using just a little Magic Sizing to flatten all the seams nicely.

Twenty two girls dressed and ready to sew!

Twenty four girls in four rows - sew cute!

ADDITIONAL TIPS AND IDEAS

Foundation Paper Piecing

Lou Ann B. chose to foundation paper piece her girls (along with the picket fence, trees, flowers, houses and stores!).  She used graph paper that with a quarter inch grid. Using the pattern pieces, she drew them on the graph paper. Lou Ann would add as many pieces as she could until she had to start another section because of a seam.

Lou Ann's tips:

• Sew right on the paper and then add the sections together to make your block or unit.
• Use a small stitch (1.5) so the paper will tear off when done.
• When you make your drawing copy it on copy paper and sew. NOTE: You always need to make your copies from the original. If you make copies from a copy, the size gets distorted and will not work out.

Boys Not Girls - No Problem!

Kathy W. started her Girl Next Door quilt before she knew the gender of her grand baby so she made a few adjustments and alternated Boy blocks with the Girl blocks for her version of the quilt.

Not Just for Little Girls!

Dorothy F's version of Girl Next Door depicts her and her friends.  You'll notice many of her girlfriends have gray hair.

Ways to Customize Your Girlies

Sewaftersix customized her girls with sweet embroidered faces.  Imagine the fun you can have embroidering the dresses and beyond!

Have a Play Date!

Julie G. enlisted the help of her 5 year old grand daughter to play with combinations for the dress and leggings on her design wall.  What wonderful memories!

Girl Next Door - Month 3 - Flower Block August 01 2020 1 Comment

IT IS A PREREQUISITE OF MAKING THIS BLOCK THAT YOU HAVE A COPY OF THE PATTERN GIRL NEXT DOOR BY LOUISE PAPAS FOR THE JEN KINGWELL DESIGN COLLECTIVE.

Charlotte (@Kirkenoll) here and for month 3, we are going to work on the corner flower blocks.

Since these colorful flowers will go together in no time, you may wish to begin selecting your fabric for next month when we tackle all 24 paper doll girls.  For the background fabric for the girl block pick various light to medium-light fabrics to alternate so the blocks don’t blend from block to another.  The dress, legs, skin and hair fabrics should contrast with the background fabric so each girl can be seen clearly.  You may also want to consider fabric that can be fussy cut for the dresses.

Each month, I will share the fabric we used on the original Red Thread Studio shop sample and then layout the cutting checklist.  I have also provided cutting tabs that you can download and print out.  These are useful to keep track of the various pieces used in this scrappy quilt.  At the end, I will also give some useful tips that I encountered when piecing the sample.

Feel free to comment here, on Instagram or in the Girl Next Door Quilt-Along Facebook group with any questions.  Don't forget to share your photos of your work in progress either on Instagram! Just use the hashtag #GirlNextDoorQAL.

Choose Your Fabric

We chose to keep the flower stems scrappy and used the 12 different green fabrics that were used in the Picket Fence block.  For the flowers, we used shades of pink, orange, yellow and blue to make these bright and cheerful monochrome flowers with a contrasting center.

Cutting Checklist - make four 6 ½” x 6 ½” blocks 

Flower Fabric - cut for four flower blocks

• 2 x T29 - use template - 1 ½  x  4 - petals
• 2 x T30 - 1 ½  x  1 ½  - petals
• 1 x T30 - 1 ½  x  1 ½  - flower center - might want to fussy cut

Stem Fabric - cut for four flower blocks

• 1 x T31 and 1 x T31 in reverse -  use template - 1  x  3
• 1 x T32 - 1  x  4

Background Fabric - white main background fabric - cut for four flower blocks

• 4 x T33 - 1 ⅝   x  1 ⅝  - cut on the diagonal to make two triangles
• 2 x T34 - use template* - 2 x 3 - one in reverse but no worries if using white solid
• 2 x T35 - use template* - 2 x 3 - one in reverse but no worries if using white solid

Cut 4 corners (T36, T37, 2xT38) bigger to make the block larger then trim down to exact size.

• 1 x T36 - 3  x  3  - cut on the diagonal to make two triangles ( use one for other flower)
• 1 x T37 - 4  x  4  - cut on the diagonal to make two triangles ( use one for other flower)
• 2 x T38 - 6  x  6  - cut on the diagonal to make two triangles 

* trace these pieces using a light box or up against sunny window if you wish

Flower Cutting Tabs 

If you wish you can cut up tabs and place with your cut fabric pieces.  See attached Cutting Tabs. 

Follow Pattern Assembly instructions to piece two flower blocks

• Scrappy cute! No matching required.
• Pay attention to flower corners and leaf fabric placement - a little tricky. Look at pictures carefully.
• Because of the diagonal leaf seams there might be some shadowing of the green fabric through the white background. Look for this and trim the green seam edge a bit if necessary.
• I made the 4 corners (T36, T37, 2xT38) bigger to piece block larger then cut down to exact size.
• When blocks are completely pieced give it a final press on a fluffy towel using just a little Magic Sizing to flatten all the seams nicely.
• Each flower block should measure 6 ½” square so trim to get that final perfect size to fit in corners.

Girl Next Door - Month 2 - Picket Fence Block July 01 2020 8 Comments

IT IS A PREREQUISITE OF MAKING THIS BLOCK THAT YOU HAVE A COPY OF THE PATTERN GIRL NEXT DOOR BY LOUISE PAPAS FOR THE JEN KINGWELL DESIGN COLLECTIVE.

Wow!  I can’t believe it’s July already.  Charlotte (@Kirkenoll) here. This month, we are going to complete the four picket fence blocks.  After all, what is a sweet schoolhouse without a darling picket fence?

I love chain piecing so hopefully my tips will help keep you organized and help you to piece these borders together successfully.

Each month, I will share the fabric we used on the original sample at Red Thread Studio and then layout the cutting checklist.  I have also provided cutting tabs that you can download and print out.  These are useful to keep track of the various pieces used in this scrappy quilt.  At the end, I will also give some useful tips that I encountered when piecing the sample.

Feel free to comment here, on Instagram or in the Girl Next Door Quilt-Along Facebook group with any questions.  Don't forget to share your photos of your work in progress either on Instagram or Facebook each week.  Just use the hashtag #GirlNextDoorQAL.

Choose Your Fabric

We chose to keep the flower stems scrappy by using different green fabrics.

Our floral fabric is simple with a neutral/white backdrop and the picket fence fabric has subtle tone on tone dots in order to differentiate it from the white background fabric.

Cutting Checklist

Make four 22 ½” x 6 ½” picket fence borders

Picket Fence Fabric

• 52 x T22 - 1 ½ x 4 - cut 2 x 4” WOF strips - then sub-cut 1 ½
• 48 x T23 - 1 ¼ x 1 - cut 1 x 1 ¼” WOF strip plus leftover from T22 cut - then sub-cut 1
• 52 x T24 - use template - cut 2 x 1 ½” WOF strips then sub-cut using triangle template

Green Garden Fabric

• 48 x T25 - 1 ¼ x 2 ¾ - scrappy cuts

Floral Garden Fabric

• 48 x T26 - 1 ¼ x 1 ¼ - cut 2 x 1 ¼” WOF strips then sub-cut 1 ¼ squares
• 48 x T27 - use template - cut 3 x 1 ½” WOF strips then sub-cut using template
• 4 x T28 and 4 x T28 in reverse - use template - 1 ½ x 1 ½

Wait To Cut

• 4 strips - 22 ½ x 2” - may need to adjust the 2” to make sure the border measures 6 ½”. Cut bigger and then trim down to exact size.

Picket Fence Cutting Tabs

If you wish you can cut up tabs and place with your cut fabric pieces.  See attached Cutting Tabs. 

Follow Pattern Assembly instructions to piece four picket fence borders

• These picket fence borders are perfect for chain piecing.
• If you are working from the Red Thread Studio fabric pack, the fence fabric is printed lightly on one side. Be careful to sew right sides together. There was a little un-sewing going at my house tonight :-).
• Match lower and upper picket fence seams. I did lots of pinning here.
• When sewing floral garden long strip to the picket fence top try to keep those points pointy if you wish - no stress! If you sew with the point seams facing up you can see where to sew so you don’t cut off the points. I also first pin the seams to see if they all meet in the right place before sewing when I start to piece a new to me block that seems a bit complicated (anything with templates or points).  Another option to ensure precise points, is to foundation paper piece the fence blocks. We will share previous participants photos of their foundation paper pieced blocks in the Facebook Group.  But who says that the picket fence must be pointy? There are fences with flat tops instead of pointy so if you consistently sew off those points, it will look fine too! The most important thing is no stress! If it’s not perfect or exactly like the original that’s what makes it unique and created with your own hands. 

• Press floral garden long strip seam towards the long strip to reduce bulk.
• Each picket fence border should measure 22 ½” x 6 ½”. If you check your measurements periodically as you piece you can be more precise.
• When borders are completely pieced give it a final press on a fluffy towel using just a little Magic Sizing to flatten all the seams nicely.
• If it’s a little smaller or bigger you can block it to size. The way I do this is to spray lightly with Magic Sizing and either stretch a bit or shrink it up till it measures correctly, let it dry then press it again to set.

Girl Next Door - Month 1 - School House Block June 01 2020 3 Comments

IT IS A PREREQUISITE OF MAKING THIS BLOCK THAT YOU HAVE A COPY OF THE PATTERN GIRL NEXT DOOR BY LOUISE PAPAS FOR THE JEN KINGWELL DESIGN COLLECTIVE.  YOU CAN PURCHASE YOUR PATTERN HERE AND/OR THE FABRIC KITS HERE.

Happy June!  Charlotte (@Kirkenoll) here. Welcome to the first month of our 2020 Quilt-Along!  We are so excited to host this QAL again...it is such a sweet, scrappy medallion quilt. This month, we are going to complete the Center Schoolhouse Block.

Each month, I will share the fabric we used at Red Thread Studio in our original shop sample in 2018 and then layout the cutting checklist.  I have also provided cutting tabs that you can download and print out.  These are useful to keep track of the various pieces used in this scrappy quilt.  At the end, I will also give some useful tips that I encountered when piecing the sample.

Feel free to comment here, on Instagram or in the Girl Next Door Quilt-Along Facebook group with any questions.  Don't forget to share your photos of your work in progress either on Instagram or Facebook! Just use the hashtag #GirlNextDoorQAL.

Choose Your Fabric

Cutting Checklist (T= Template)

Schoolhouse Front Fabric

• 8 x T1 - 1 ½  x  4
• 2 x T2 - 1 ½  x  4 ¼
• 1 x T3 - 1 ¼  x  9 ¾ - cut 1st horizontally
• 1 x T4 - 1      x  9 ¾ - cut 1st horizontally

Schoolhouse Side Fabric

• 4 x T5 - 2 ⅛  x  4
• 1 x T6 - 1 ½  x  5 ½
• 1 x T7 - 1 ¼  x  5 ½
• 1 x T8 - 1 ¾  x  5 ½

Schoolhouse Front Roof Fabric

• 1 x T9 - use template - @5 x 13 (I had to tilt the front roof template to fit which put it on the bias which was a little tricky if using a Fat Sixteenth)

• 1 x T10 - use template - @6 x 6

Assorted Prints - can rotary cut or use template to fussy cut

• 7 x T11 - windows - 2 ¼  x  4
• 1 x T12 - door - 2 ¼  x  5
• 2 x T13 - chimneys - 1 ½  x  1 ¾

Background Fabric

• 1 x T14 - 1 ¼  x  9 ¾
• 1 x T15 - 1 ¼  x  10 ½
• 1 x T16 - use template    \
• 1 x T17 - use template ---- Use 6” square for all 3
• 1 x T18 - use template    /
• 1 x T19 - 1 ½  x  3
• 1 x T20 - 1 ½  x  8 ½
• 1 x T21 - 1 ½  x  2 ½

Schoolhouse Block Borders- wait to cut

Schoolhouse block should measure 20 ½ square so might need to adjust these borders to get that final size.

I like to make the block larger then cut down to exact size.

• 2  - 15 ½  x  3
• 2  - 20 ½  x  3

Schoolhouse Cutting Tabs

If you wish you can cut up tabs and place with your cut fabric pieces.  See attached Cutting Tabs. 

Follow Pattern Assembly instructions to piece Center Schoolhouse block

• Make sure you line up windows vertically during piecing.

• Match chimney edges with edges of roof.

• Schoolhouse block should measure 20 ½ inches square so you might need to adjust final borders to get that final size. I like to make the block larger then cut down to exact size.

When block is completed give it a final press on a fluffy towel using just a little Magic Sizing to flatten all the seams nicely.

Show us your Schoolhouse Blocks!

Getting Ready - Girl Next Door Quilt-Along May 22 2020 2 Comments

This is Charlotte Noll (@kirkenoll) leading the Red Thread Studio Girl Next Door QAL.  I have been quilting for many years and will pass along my knowledge during this project.

This sweet scrappy medallion quilt pattern is written by Louise Papas (@louisepapas) for the Jen Kingwell Design Collective.  Finished size is 71inches square...perfect for that special little girl in your life or to snuggle up with when you want to remember feeling like a little girl!

First let’s discuss the plans and getting ready to sew.  Following will be the order in which the quilt top is created, concentric row by row and then finishing:

• Center Schoolhouse block (1)
• Picket fences borders (4)
• Flower corner blocks (4)
• Girl border blocks (24)
• Dog corner blocks (2)
• Cat corner blocks (2)
• House border blocks (24)
• Shop border blocks (4)
• Tree corner blocks (4)
• Quilt Assembly, Quilting, Binding

My favorite thread for machine piecing is Aurifil 50wt thread - thin, strong and very little lint.  I will be using #2021 Natural White with a new 70/10 sewing machine needle.

It’s a good idea to clean and oil your sewing machine according to instructions before starting a project.  After do some stitching on scrap fabric to make sure any oil residue is removed.

Before starting to work on any pattern, check the designer's website to see if there are any changes that need to be made. I’ve incorporated the changes for this pattern at this writing but there may be new ones to verify. See Jen Kingwell’s Erratas information before starting.  Still need the Girl Next Door pattern or fabric pack?

Rotary Cutting vs Plastic Templates -  The pattern pieces are mostly made up of templates. However many of the templates are rectangles that can be measured and easily cut using a rotary cutter.  I will provide the template measurements and template tips as part of the QAL so you can easily cut what you need and get to the fun part of sewing faster.  Putting a new blade in your rotary cutter is always a good way to start a new project.

Before cutting the fabric pieces it’s a good idea to press the fabric.  I sometimes use a spray to make the fabric nice and crisp.  My favorite is Magic Sizing that you can purchase in the grocery store in the laundry section.  Other people use steam (I love my dry, no-holes, heavy vintage iron), starch, Best Press or other products to make the fabric easier to work with.

Some of the pieces are not rectangles and you will need to create a plastic template to cut properly. Others simply put the template sheet on a light box and trace the shape on the fabric with a pencil then cut out. When cutting using a plastic template, especially one with a long straight line, put an acrylic ruler next to the template and use the ruler edge to make the cut. It will be more precise and will avoid cutting the plastic template piece.  If your template is slipping put a small piece of non-slip shelf liner between the template and fabric and that will hold it better while cutting. I used 4 clear template sheets.

Precision - For all the rows of this pattern to fit together correctly it is necessary to cut the pieces precisely and make sure you are sewing with a true ¼” seam. If you are a beginner there are online tutorials for precise piecing and checking your ¼” seams. I always use a ¼” seam presser foot for my sewing machine. Along the way I will point out places where you can verify you are staying on target and where you should pay particular attention to matching seams and points.

Pinning - it’s a hot topic! I’m a pinner from way back but it takes time so I’m trying to use less. I find that if I pin at the beginning and end of a seam and only where matching is needed that is enough. These are my all time favorite piecing pins, very thin and sharp - Karen Kay Buckley Short Perfect Pins . It also helps to sew with the side that has the most opposing seams facing you so that you can make sure you keep them flat and open.

Pressing the sewn seams is also very important.

• For this pattern I’m pressing the seams open (unless directed otherwise) to reduce bulk and avoid shadowing of the printed fabric to the light backgrounds.
• Sometimes I press the newly sewn seam to set the stitches flat if needed.
• I use a Strip Stick to help press the longish seams open without disturbing the rest of the block.
• For bulky seam intersections, I use The Wacker hammer to help flatten them if possible.

When a block is completed I like to give it a final press on a fluffy towel using just a little Magic Sizing to flatten all the seams nicely.

I will be Big Stitch Hand Quilting using Sue Spargo - Eleganza Perle Cotton Size 8. If you are interested in this method see my Big Stitch Quilting Tutorial.

In June, the first step is cutting and sewing the Center Schoolhouse block. Let the fun begin!

Girl Next Door Quilt-Along Introduction May 21 2020 4 Comments

GIRL NEXT DOOR QUILT-ALONG INTRODUCTION - Relaunching June 2020 (original QAL ran January 2018 - October 2018)

Girl Next Door is a sweet and scrappy medallion quilt designed by Louise Papas for the Jen Kingwell Design Collective that offers opportunities to use templates.

Please welcome Charlotte Noll who will lead the 10 month Quilt-Along for Girl Next Door!  Charlotte has been quilting for many years and will pass along all her tips for precise cutting, machine piecing and finishing to make sure your blocks all fit together properly to create this lovely quilt.  

Find Charlotte on Instagram, and Facebook.

Here is an overview of the Quilt-Along.  We hope you join us! 

The pattern is mostly templates but many of them can be easily cut instead with a ruler and rotary cutter.  Charlotte has measured each pattern piece and has created labels so you can easily cut and arrange for piecing.  Pictures of pattern pieces and layouts will also be supplied.  The pattern is really special, and Charlotte's notes will make it much easier for you to complete.

DATES: The QAL starts June 1, 2020 and will finish March 31, 2021.

MONTHLY PLANNER:  The quilt will be made in the following order:

• June 2020 - Center School House Block (make 1) 
• July 2020 - Picket Fence Borders (make 4) 
• August 2020 - Flower Corner Blocks (make 4) 
• September 2020 - Girl Border Blocks (make 24)
• October 2020 - Dog Corner Blocks (make 2)
• November 2020 - Cat Corner Blocks (make 2) 
• December 2020 - House Border Blocks (make 24)
• January 2021 - Shop Border Blocks (make 4)
• February 2021 - Tree Corner Blocks (make 4)
• March 2021 - Putting It All Together and Finishing

FABRIC:  Bust your stash with this scrappy quilt or let us pick them for you.  This quilt requires ~ 10 yards of fabric.  Girl Next Door fabric kits available HERE.

PATTERN:  Girl Next Door by Louise Papas is available for purchase separately.  See photo of original quilt below.  The finished quilt measures 71 inches square.  A pattern is required.

CONNECT:  The majority of the Girl Next Door will be run on the Red Thread Studio Stitch-Along Blog and on Facebook.  Follow @RedThreadStudioOnline and tag us on your Girl Next Door posts so we can share your work.  To connect with others who are also participating, use the following hashtag: #GirlNextDoorQAL 

If you’d like to connect with people on Facebook you can join Girl Next Door Quilt-Along Group where we’ll be posting regularly and encouraging people to share.

Decadence Stitch-along - Month 13 - Putting It All Together March 16 2020

 

Decadence Stitch-Along - Month 12 - Petals - Block 12 February 15 2020

Today we review our last of twelve blocks. It has been a year since we began this journey together, and together we shall continue.  Many of you will still be working on these blocks into this new year, so don't hesitate to continue to ask any questions. I'll still be around to help.

As I write, today is Valentine's Day. Remember to express your love to your loved ones. So often we forget to tell them how we feel, and we all need to hear it. Every year, I get out my floss box filled with Valentine hexagons and make a few more hexagon flowers. There is something about RED, PINK and WHITE together that I just adore. I hope you enjoy these pretties and are inspired to make a few of your own. 

TIP FOR TODAY:

This particular block is my least favorite. It has too much open space compared to all the other blocks, and I'm not completely happy with all my fabric choices. If I had the time, I would have made another (EDITOR'S NOTE:  I like this block and think it looks lovely!). But alas, we wanted it to hang at Quilt Con 2019, and I managed to mail it to Jen at her hotel the day before the show. Phew, that was a close one.

Back to my tip. In order to fill in an open space of a block which is "outlined" with adjoining pieces, you can place a second/different background fabric within this outline. This block is an example where the petals touch each other around a center open space.  I would like to have given this center background more contrast with a darker fabric. So maybe you will consider this idea yourself. The method I used for doing this will be explained below.

FABRICS USED IN THIS MONTH'S ROUND ARE:

• Floral Fusion
• Hot Pink with Tiny Flowers
• Black with Green Border Print
• Peacock Feathers
• Cream with Drawn Flowers
• Background Fabric

Also included in your packet are 1" paper circles.

FABRIC CHOICES AND FUSSY CUTS:

1) I began by making ALL my Orange Peel shapes. Although I usually thread baste my pieces, this is one instance in which I use glue for perfection. As shown in the first picture below, I cut my seam allowance to about 1/8" so that there would not be any folds/gathers which would cause bulk when using a larger seam allowance. 

- Cut SIXTEEN (16) Orange Peels from the Floral Fusion fabric. EIGHT (8) will be cut with the curl facing one direction and EIGHT (8) will be cut exactly the opposite, as shown in the first picture below. This picture also illustrates the placement of the fabric CUT.  Although our pattern lists the Orange Peel template as 2 inches, it is actually 2-7/8" point to point.

- Cut EIGHT (8) Orange Peels from the black stripe section of the Black with Green Border Print fabric with the stripes going crosswise and a black stripe at each point.

- Cut EIGHT (8) Orange Peels from the Hot Pink with Tiny Flowers fabric, avoiding any of the larger flowers bouquets.  

2) Cut TWELVE (12) one-inch circles from the eye of the feather of the Peacock Feather fabric, as shown in the first picture below. Using a seam allowance of about 3/16ths of an inch, with small running stitches, gather the fabric tightly around the paper circle and iron it while holding your gathering thread tightly in place.

3) On a 16" square of Cream with Drawn Flowers fabric, with your finger, gently crease two diagonal lines forming an "X" from corner to corner.  Do not iron this crease; it is a gentle crease used for placement guidelines; it will be ironed away when block is complete. Next, gently crease two additional lines, one-inch away from the last line, in each of four directions surrounding the center, creating a grid, as shown in the first picture below. You may add additional gently creased lines if it will help you with placement. 

NOTE: If you choose not to use the second/different background of the Cream with Drawn Flowers, you may appliqué everything to the soft pink background fabric. However, learning this method now may come in handy for future patterns which you may work with. 

4) When you appliqué an Orange Peel, stitch one side from one extreme point to the other extreme point. Then with the tip of your needle, tuck the "tag" seam allowance under the point of the Orange Peel and make a small tack stitch defining the point. Finish appliquéing the other side of the Orange Peel when directed and tuck your "tag" seam allowance under in the same way. You want this "tag" seam allowance trimmed small, about 1/8"

5) Begin by appliquéing your Black Striped Orange Peels point to point along the creased center "X", two along each line, placement shown in the picture of the finished block at the beginning of this article. Keep those "tags" tucked under, your points sharp and the points touching the neighboring Orange Peel point.

6) As shown in the finished block, appliqué the eight (8) Hot Pink Orange Peels around the center.

7) As shown in the finished block, appliqué the sixteen (16) Brit Bouquet Orange Peels around the perimeter of the design. APPLIQUÉ ONLY THE SIDE OF THE ORANGE PEEL FACING THE CENTER, LEAVE THE OTHER SIDE LOOSE. Be sure that your Floral Fusion Orange Peels are separated into sets of two symmetrical pieces.The curled ends of the Curly Cue meet where two Orange Peels come together into a convex point.

8) Appliqué four (4) one-inch circles in the center of the four open spaces around the center of your block. 

You may remove the paper before you appliqué the circle, keeping the circle smooth when stitching. Or you may use my preferred method to appliqué the circle with the paper still inside; then remove it from the back afterwards. The following three pictures demonstrate this method. It guarantees a smooth circle shape for me. I described this method in July when we made Round #2, Twenty-Four Black Circles.

9) The following six pictures show how I prepared the finished center for appliqué to the soft pink Background Fabric.  

- This picture is what your block should look like now. Remember, you DID NOT sew down the outside edge of the Floral Fusion Orange Peels. 

- Fold back the Cream Fabric with Drawn Lines as shown in the following picture. This will now be a square. One section shows how to trim your seam allowance to 1/4".

- Turn over the piece and you will see the Background Fabric "sticking out" in the four concave sections. Make a slit down the center of these Background Fabric areas ending a few threads short of your appliqué as seen in one corner of the following picture.

- Trim the fabric in the concave corner to 1/4" seam allowance and fold back as shown in the following picture. 

 - The following pic shows your completed center from the front.  

10) Appliqué this piece to the center of an 18 inch square of Background fabric, positioning as seen in the finished block above. This square will later be trimmed to 17-1/2 inches. 

11) Hold on, we're not finished yet. Appliqué the remaining eight (8) one-inch circles, placement shown in picture of the finished block above.

WITH THE COMPLETION OF THIS BLOCK #12 ROUND, we have finished all our blocks. Next month we will create our Elongated Hexagon Inset and sew our quilt top together. Be sure to post your progress on Instagram and/or Facebook with #DecadenceSAL. We all like to win a prize. And feel free to ask any questions.

Decadence Stitch-Along - Month 11 - Floral Fusion - Block 10 January 15 2020

The conclusion of our Decadence Stitch Along is just a couple months away. Although many of you have not been posting your progress, there must be somebody who is planning to surprise us having kept up with these blocks.

I took a class once many moons ago where the teacher gave us quite a substantial amount of homework to be completed by the following week. I had to stitch for hours every day, but I finished it, mostly because I was a free wheeling single girl who didn't have a family to take care of. I had wondered how most of the students managed to find the time. When class started, the teacher asked us who finished their homework. Before anyone had a chance to respond, she laughed and said she was just kidding about expecting it to be done. Word soon got around that mine was completed. So, who of you are secretly keeping up with these blocks? 

TIPS FOR TODAY:

• When comparing my finished block to the picture on the pattern, you will notice that I left off the final edging which shows pink on your pattern. Considering my fabric choices, I felt the Round looked much better without it. I always like to tweak a pattern to make it my own. It's the artist's prerogative ;)
• This time I'm looking for a tip from some of you to help me. I have a lot of arthritis in my shoulders which causes pain when I am stitching. I know I stitch much too tight. Do any of you have suggestions on how to loosen up my stitching or even how to position my arms to help alleviate the pain? 

So let's get started! 

FABRICS USED IN THIS MONTH'S ROUND ARE:

• Floral Fusion
• Cream with Black Dots
• Teal Damask
• Hot Pink with Tiny Flowers
• Peacock Feathers
• Background Fabric

FABRIC CHOICES AND FUSSY CUTS:

1) The center is comprised of EIGHT One-Inch 45 Degree Diamonds, cut from the Peacock Feathers fabric. In Step 3 below, we need EIGHT MORE identical One-Inch 45 Degree Diamonds. THEREFORE, WE WILL BE MAKING SIXTEEN NOW AND SAVING HALF OF THEM FOR STEP 3 BELOW.

YOU WILL NEED TO LOCATE THIS SPOT ON THE BACK OF THE FABRIC.

YOU WILL IRON THE INTERFACE TO THIS SPOT ON THE BACK OF THE FABRIC.

YOU WILL CUT WITH A SEAM ALLOWANCE APPROXIMATELY 1/4" BEYOND THE INTERFACE.

Peacock Feathers fabric CUT SIXTEEN ONE-INCH 45 DEGREE DIAMONDS (saving eight for step 3.) 

Sew half of the eight pieces (four) together. Then sew the remaining four pieces together. You will now have one long seam to attach the two halves. This will make it easier to match up your center points. I like to start sewing at the center towards one outside; then again, start sewing at the center towards the opposite outside. We want those eight skinny points to match perfectly at the center. The picture below shows an illustration of my method used on one of the blocks from my Celestial Star quilt.

2) Surrounding the center are EIGHT One-Inch Honeycombs, cut from the Hot Pink with Tiny Flowers fabric. In Step 5 below, we need EIGHT MORE identical One-Inch Honeycombs. THEREFORE, WE WILL BE MAKING SIXTEEN NOW AND SAVING HALF OF THEM FOR STEP 5 BELOW. These are NOT fussy cut, although I varied each piece using the larger bunches of flowers and/or the tiny white flowers.

YOU WILL NEED TO LOCATE THIS SPOT ON THE BACK OF THE FABRIC.

YOU WILL IRON THE INTERFACE TO THIS SPOT ON THE BACK OF THE FABRIC.

YOU WILL CUT WITH A SEAM ALLOWANCE APPROXIMATELY 1/4" BEYOND THE INTERFACE.

Hot Pink with Tiny Flowers fabric. CUT SIXTEEN ONE-INCH HONEYCOMBS (saving eight for step 5). 

Sew these Honeycombs into the concave area between the center Diamond star points. 

3) Referring to Step 1 above, you have EIGHT more One-Inch Diamonds to add next.  

Sew these Diamonds into the concave area between the Hot Pink Honeycombs. 

4) The next step is to make SIXTEEN ONE-INCH SQUARES from the Cream with Black Dots fabric. Although not fussy cut, I cut these from an area of the fabric with more saturated dots. 

YOU WILL NEED TO LOCATE THIS SPOT ON THE BACK OF THE FABRIC.

YOU WILL IRON THE INTERFACE TO THIS SPOT ON THE BACK OF THE FABRIC.

YOU WILL CUT WITH A SEAM ALLOWANCE APPROXIMATELY 1/4" BEYOND THE INTERFACE.

Sew these Squares into the concave are between one Peacock Feather Diamond and one Hot Pink w/ Tiny Flowers Honeycomb.

5) Referring to Step 2 above, you have EIGHT more One-Inch Honeycombs to add next.  

LINE these up with the first set of Hot Pink Honeycombs, sewing them between two One-Inch Squares of the Cream with Black Dot fabric.

6) Fussy cut EIGHT ONE-INCH OCTAGONS from the Floral Fusion fabric. 

YOU WILL NEED TO LOCATE THIS SPOT ON THE BACK OF THE FABRIC.

YOU WILL IRON THE INTERFACE TO THIS SPOT ON THE BACK OF THE FABRIC.

YOU WILL CUT WITH A SEAM ALLOWANCE APPROXIMATELY 1/4" BEYOND THE INTERFACE. 

PLEASE NOTE, THIS IS THE CORRECTED PHOTO

Doesn't this fabric make the most beautiful fussy cut Octagons? Sew these between the Hot Pink Honeycombs, lining them up with the center bottom point of the Octagon touching the Peacock Feather Diamond point.

7) Fussy cut SIXTEEN ONE-INCH SQUARES from the Teal Damask fabric. 

YOU WILL NEED TO LOCATE THIS SPOT ON THE BACK OF THE FABRIC.

YOU WILL IRON THE INTERFACE TO THIS SPOT ON THE BACK OF THE FABRIC.

YOU WILL CUT WITH A SEAM ALLOWANCE APPROXIMATELY 1/4" BEYOND THE INTERFACE. 

Sew each of these between a Hot Pink with Tiny Flowers Honeycomb and a Floral Fusion Octagon.

8) Remember that I have chosen NOT to include the pieces in the final edging surrounding the block, as shown in pink on the pattern.

Lastly, appliqué your completed Round to the center of an 18 Inch square of background fabric. The square will later be trimmed to 17-1/2 inches.

One more Round left to do in February before we start with finishing details. Keep posting your progress on Instagram and/or Facebook with #DecadenceSAL. There are still great prizes to be won. And, as always, feel free to ask any questions. 

* Our hearts and prayers go out to our friends in Australia battling fires in extreme heat devastating their beautiful landscapes and many homes *

Decadence Stitch-Along - Month 10 - Houndstooth Border - Block 5 December 15 2019

As we adventure into the Christmas season, how many of you are baking cookies, shopping, decorating the tree, wrapping gifts, and of course, still working on some of your gifts? I still have one gift that I haven't even started.  As a result of this busy time of year, I've chosen a simple and fast block for you to create. It uses 1-1/2" templates, only 31 pieces and the fussy cuts are rather simple. 

TIPS: 

The more I work with fussy cutting, the more my eye adapts to looking at fabrics in a different way. My eye seems to focus on the potential for fussy cuts and what fun when a piece of fabric has numerous sections which can be utilized. I like to scroll through Instagram and study the works of other stitchers giving me more insight to the procedure. Be adventurous and enjoy the process.

As you have been following my instructions for fussy cutting, I hope you are understanding how to select your own fabrics and fussy cuts for future quilts. Listed below are types of designs which quite often fussy cut well. There will always be some exceptions to these suggestions. 

• Symmetrical prints make fussy cutting easy. The fabric does the work for you.
• Thin stripes are excellent. They give movement to the piece.
• Border stripes with interesting designs may give you more than one section to work with.
• Designs that are small enough to completely fill in the template you are using. (This does not mean centering a simple motif in your cut.)
• Designs that have the same design facing in opposite directions.
• One color tone on tone fabric with different and varied designs running throughout.
• Tiny dots that are randomly spaced.

Examples of fabric designs which I generally do not use for fussy cutting include solids, small overall prints, large geometric prints. When shopping, bring along your Magic Mirror and some template viewers. In my early fussy cutting days, I basted a lot of cuts which ultimately did not work. And years later, I still do this, only not as often. 

FABRICS USED IN THIS MONTH'S ROUND ARE:

• Black with Large Floral
• Black with Green Border Stripe
• Hot Pink with Tiny Flowers
• Peacock Feathers
• Black and White Houndstooth
• Background Fabric

FABRIC CHOICES AND FUSSY CUTS:

1) The center is a 1-1/2" Hexagon cut from the Black with Large Floral fabric. Notice how a tiny blue flower is placed in the center.

YOU WILL NEED TO LOCATE THIS SPOT ON THE BACK OF THE FABRIC.

YOU WILL IRON THE INTERFACE TO THIS SPOT ON THE BACK OF THE FABRIC.

YOU WILL CUT WITH A SEAM ALLOWANCE APPROXIMATELY 1/4" BEYOND THE INTERFACE.

Black with Large Floral fabric, CUT ONE 1-1/2" hexagon.

2) The first ring around the center Hexagon is comprised of 1-1/2" Hexagons cut from the green area of the Black with Green Border Fabric. These are NOT identical. Cut from an area of the green where there are some pink flowers.

YOU WILL NEED TO LOCATE THIS SPOT ON THE BACK OF THE FABRIC.

YOU WILL IRON THE INTERFACE TO THIS SPOT ON THE BACK OF THE FABRIC.

YOU WILL CUT WITH A SEAM ALLOWANCE APPROXIMATELY 1/4" BEYOND THE INTERFACE.

Green area of the Black with Green Border Fabric, CUT SIX 1-1/2" hexagons.

These will be sewn around the center Hexagon. 

3) The second ring around the center is comprised of alternating 1-1/2" Hexagons and 1-1/2" Jewels.  

The 1-1/2" Hexagons are cut from the Hot Pink with Tiny Flowers fabric. These are NOT identical.

YOU WILL NEED TO LOCATE THIS SPOT ON THE BACK OF THE FABRIC.

YOU WILL IRON THE INTERFACE TO THIS SPOT ON THE BACK OF THE FABRIC.

YOU WILL CUT WITH A SEAM ALLOWANCE APPROXIMATELY 1/4" BEYOND THE INTERFACE.

Hot Pink with Tiny Flowers fabric, CUT SIX 1-1/2" Hexagons.

The 1-1/2" Jewels are fussy cut from the Peacock Feathers fabric. Notice how the stem of the feather points into the center of the point of the Jewel. And the plume of the feather, in the wide part of the jewel, leaves a small amount of black space between the feather and the top seam. 

YOU WILL NEED TO LOCATE THIS SPOT ON THE BACK OF THE FABRIC.

YOU WILL IRON THE INTERFACE TO THIS SPOT ON THE BACK OF THE FABRIC.

YOU WILL CUT WITH A SEAM ALLOWANCE APPROXIMATELY 1/4" BEYOND THE INTERFACE.

Peacock Feathers fabric, CUT SIX 1-1/2" Jewels.

The Jewels and the Hexagons will alternate around the Black with Green Border Print Hexagons.

4) The final set of fussy cuts are 1-1/2" Half Hexagons cut from the Black and White Houndstooth fabric. Place a darker black stripe along the outside wide edge. Cut each piece identical so that, when joined they will all match the same.

YOU WILL NEED TO LOCATE THIS SPOT ON THE BACK OF THE FABRIC.

YOU WILL IRON THE INTERFACE TO THIS SPOT ON THE BACK OF THE FABRIC.

YOU WILL CUT WITH A SEAM ALLOWANCE APPROXIMATELY 1/4" BEYOND THE INTERFACE.

Black and White Houndstooth fabric, CUT TWELVE 1-1/2" Half Hexagons. Join two together along the shortest side. Make six sets. These will be sewn between the points of the Peacock Feather Jewels.

Lastly, appliqué your completed Round to the center of an 18 inch square of background fabric. The square will later be trimmed to 17-1/2 inches.

NOW, OUR DECEMBER HOUNDSTOOTH BORDER - BLOCK #5 ROUND IS FINISHED. Don't forget to post your progress on Instagram and/or Facebook with #DecadenceSAL. You could win a great prize from Jen. And check out Red Thread Studio for some great Christmas shopping for sewing friends or yourself. As always, feel free to ask questions.

Merry Christmas to all and to all a good night of sewing!

Decadence Stitch-Along - Month 9 - Teal Star with Peacock Wings - Block 3 November 15 2019

Welcome back as we dive into our November block. As the Thanksgiving holiday approaches, I am reminded of the many things I am thankful for. One in particular is that I am thankful for Jen from Red Thread Studio for giving me the opportunity to share my process of English Paper Piecing this Decadence quilt.

I have been sewing since I was a child, and I had made a few hexagon quilts in the past. But when I first saw Katja Marek's Rosette quilt, it totally changed my sewing world. For this I am thankful as it continues to be a happy experience. I hope it is a happy experience for you. Take your time and enjoy the process.

TIPS for today:

1. Should you happen to purchase Jewel papers for another EPP project, keep in mind the following:

• Paper Pieces in the U.S.A. measures their Jewel papers along the short side.
• The iron on interface you are using from Hugs N Kisses measures Jewel interface along the short side as well
• BUT, Sue Daley measures Jewel papers along the long side, so her 1" Jewel is half the size of the 1" Jewel we are using today.

2. Remember the many people, things, good experiences you have or have had in your life. Take the time to dwell on them. If you are fortunate enough to have a family with which you share a Thanksgiving dinner, enjoy and love each one of them.  

FABRICS USED IN THIS MONTH'S ROUND ARE:

• Black with Large Floral
• Peacock Feathers
• Teal Damask
• Cream with Drawn Flowers
• Black with Green Border Print
• Background Fabric

FABRIC CHOICES AND FUSSY CUTS:

1) The center is a 1" Hexagon, fussy cut from the Black with Large Floral fabric. CUT ONE. Cut from any area that has some red and pink flowers. It is expected that your Hexagon will have some black, white and/or green mixed in with the red and pink flowers.

The two pictures below show examples of where this cut can come from.

YOU WILL NEED TO LOCATE THIS SPOT ON THE BACK OF THE FABRIC.

YOU WILL IRON THE INTERFACE TO THIS SPOT ON THE BACK OF THE FABRIC.

YOU WILL CUT WITH A SEAM ALLOWANCE APPROXIMATELY 1/4" BEYOND THE INTERFACE.

From the Black with Large Floral fabric, CUT ONE FOR THE CENTER. 

NOTICE that in Item #5 below, you will be making another 18 more 1" Hexagons in the same way you made this one with the same fabric. You can make those now if you want to do so.

2) The star shape is compiled of six 1" Jewels, fussy cut from the Teal Damask fabric. 

The picture below shows the placement of the fussy cut on your fabric. 

YOU WILL NEED TO LOCATE THIS SPOT ON THE BACK OF THE FABRIC.

YOU WILL IRON THE INTERFACE TO THIS SPOT ON THE BACK OF THE FABRIC.

YOU WILL CUT WITH A SEAM ALLOWANCE APPROXIMATELY 1/4" BEYOND THE INTERFACE.

From the Teal Damask fabric, CUT SIX 1" Jewels. The flat top of a Jewel is sewn to a side of the center Hexagon. I like to sew my six Jewels into a ring with one opening; and then, I sew it around the center Hexagon.  

3) Surrounding the Teal star shape are SIX SETS OF TWO 1" Jewels fussy cut from the Peacock Feathers fabric. The picture below shows the placement of the fussy cut on your fabric.

YOU WILL NEED TO LOCATE THIS SPOT ON THE BACK OF THE FABRIC.

YOU WILL IRON THE INTERFACE TO THIS SPOT ON THE BACK OF THE FABRIC.

YOU WILL CUT WITH A SEAM ALLOWANCE APPROXIMATELY 1/4" BEYOND THE INTERFACE.

CUT TWELVE 1" Jewels from the Peacock Feathers fabric. Sew them in pairs, joining the long side of the Jewel. Sew each set to the Teal Damask star. Refer to the diagram on page two of your pattern.

4) Between the sets of Peacock Feather Jewels is a 1" 60 Degree Diamond cut from the Cream with Drawn Flowers fabric. You will be making TWELVE of these Diamonds, however, you will be sewing only SIX of them to your center at this time.

YOU WILL NEED TO LOCATE THIS SPOT ON THE BACK OF THE FABRIC.

YOU WILL IRON THE INTERFACE TO THIS SPOT ON THE BACK OF THE FABRIC.

YOU WILL CUT WITH A SEAM ALLOWANCE APPROXIMATELY 1/4" BEYOND THE INTERFACE.

CUT TWELVE Diamonds from the Cream With Drawn Flowers fabric. Sew one between each Peacock Feather Jewel set (using only six of the Diamonds). Refer to the diagram on page two of your pattern. Save the other six Diamonds for Item #5 below.

5) Refer to Item #1 above for cutting EIGHTEEN 1" HEXAGONS in the same way from the Black With Large Floral fabric.

YOU WILL NEED TO LOCATE THIS SPOT ON THE BACK OF THE FABRIC.

YOU WILL IRON THE INTERFACE TO THIS SPOT ON THE BACK OF THE FABRIC.

YOU WILL CUT WITH A SEAM ALLOWANCE APPROXIMATELY 1/4" BEYOND THE INTERFACE.

You will need to make EIGHTEEN 1" Hexagons from the Black With Large Floral fabric. (Note, you may have already made these as mentioned in Item #1 above.) Sew these Hexagons into six SETS OF THREE. Sew each set of three Hexagons to the Peacock Feathers Jewels between two Cream with Drawn Flowers Diamonds. Refer to the diagram on page two of your pattern. 

6) Now, you will sew the remaining SIX Diamonds from the Cream With Drawn Flowers fabric, created as directed in Item #4 above. Sew each one between the sets of three Hexagons, point to point with the first same Diamond you attached in Item #4 above. Refer to the diagram on page two of your pattern.

7) In finishing, you will be making TWELVE 1" 60 DEGREE Diamonds from the Black and Grey Stripes of the Border Print fabric. Place a black line down the center of the length of the Diamond as shown in the picture below.

YOU WILL NEED TO LOCATE THIS SPOT ON THE BACK OF THE FABRIC.

YOU WILL IRON THE INTERFACE TO THIS SPOT ON THE BACK OF THE FABRIC.

YOU WILL CUT WITH A SEAM ALLOWANCE APPROXIMATELY 1/4" BEYOND THE INTERFACE.

Sew TWO of these 1" Diamonds between the adjoining Hexagons you attached in #5 above. Refer to the diagram on page 2 of your pattern.

8) Appliqué the Round to the center of your background fabric.

This will complete the ninth block for the Decadence Quilt. Next month we will be making the easiest and quickest of all the blocks. Remember to post your progress on Instagram and/or Facebook with #DecadenceSAL. If you post, you might be the next winner of an awesome prize from Red Thread Studio. In the meantime, feel free to ask any questions.

Have a Happy Thanksgiving!

Decadence Stitch-Along - Month 8 - Carolyn's Peacock Star October 15 2019

It's beginning to look a lot like Christmas, so how about a Snowflake, or shall I say my Peacock Star!  This month's block is my design, AND we will be using English Paper Piecing Papers. It is actually my preferred way of EPP. 

You will notice in your October package that you received these papers as well as the pattern and fusible interface for the Clamshell block. IMPORTANT: YOUR FABRICS INCLUDE ENOUGH FOR MY SNOWFLAKE BLOCK ONLY. The clamshells take a lot of fussy cutting, so Jen has more fabrics available for purchase if you wish to do both of these. You may want to substitute the Clamshell block for another of the monthly patterns. The Snowflake would make a lovely Christmas pillow in blues or Christmas fabrics.

The fabrics we are using this month are:

• Teal Damask
• Peacock Feathers
• Black with Green Border Print
• Cream with Black Dots
• Black with Large Floral (for the solid black areas)
• Background Fabric 

If you don't already have acrylic cutting templates, you will need to either purchase these from Red Thread Studio (please inquire via email info@RedThreadStudio.com or phone 772.219.3991) OR make them...It is a very simple process to make your own templates.

1. Trace your paper piece onto template plastic. 
2. Draw your seam allowance around it.
3. Cut it out on the seam allowance.
4. I normally use 3/8 inch seams for my acrylics templates. But for 1/2 inch hexagons, a 1/4 inch seam is easier to work with. 
5. The picture below shows two ways I have made templates. One is from the template plastic. The other is from card stock with a window cut into it for fussy cutting.

FABRIC CHOICES AND FUSSY CUTS:

1) The center of the Snowflake is a one-inch Hexagon cut from the Cream with Black Dots fabric. 

• Trace your template with seam allowance.
• Cut along seam line.
• Baste or glue your seams folded over the back of the EPP paper.
• CUT ONE.

2) Surrounding the six sides of the center Hexagon, you will be cutting one-inch Jewels from the Peacock Feathers fabric. AND you will be cutting 1/2 inch Equilateral Triangles from the black area of the Black with Large Floral fabric.

PART ONE (of 2 parts):

• Trace your one-inch Jewel template with seam allowance, fussy cut shown below.
• Cut along seam line. 
• Baste or glue your seams folded over the back of the EPP paper.
• CUT SIX.

PART TWO (of 2 parts):

• Trace your one-inch Equilateral Triangle template with seam allowance on the solid black area of the Black with Large Floral fabric.
• Cut along seam line.
• Baste or glue your seams folded over the back of the EPP paper.
• CUT SIX.

Referring to the picture of the Snowflake and the illustration below, attach one Equilateral Triangle to one SHORT side of the Peacock Feather Jewel. Be sure to align each one in the same direction (ie, top left one-inch side).

Next, sew these sections to the center Hexagon with a long side of the Jewel to each Hexagon side, creating a larger Hexagon.

3) Trace your two-inch Equilateral Triangle template with seam allowance onto the Teal Damask fabric.

• Cut along seam line.
• Baste or glue your seams folded over the back of the EPP paper.
• CUT SIX. 
• Sew these sections to each side of your large pieced center Hexagon.

4) Now we will be tracing and cutting lots of one-half inch Hexagons, cutting along the seam line.

• From the Peacock Feather fabric, FUSSY CUT SIX HEXAGONS, with the tip of the Heart facing a point. 

• From the Black and Grey Stripes portion of the Black with Green Border print, CUT TWENTY-FOUR HEXAGONS, with the stripe running from point to point.

• From the Black area of the Black with Large Floral fabric, CUT TWENTY-FOUR HEXAGONS. 

• From the Cream with Black Dot fabric, CUT TWELVE HEXAGONS. 

NOW, PUTTING THEM ALL TOGETHER:

• Baste or glue your seams folded over the back of the EPP paper.
• I found it easiest to put together one section at a time, starting with ONE Peacock Feather Hexagon.
• Sew TWO Black w/ Grey striped Hexagons, one to each side of the Peacock Feather Hexagon, stripes running vertical.
• Sew TWO Solid Black Hexagons TOGETHER and attach them to the top of the Peacock Feather Hexagon with the point of the Peacock Heart facing the center of the block. Repeat for bottom.
• Sew TWO Black with Grey striped Hexagons, one on the top of this unit and one on the bottom, with stripes running vertical.
• As shown in your picture of the Snowflake Circle, sew a Cream with Black Dot Hexagon just below the striped Hexagon and to the side of the black Hexagon. Repeat this on the opposite side of the unit. NOTICE, WHEN ATTACHED TO THE CENTER UNIT, THERE WILL BE AN OPEN SPACE below this Cream with Black Dot Hexagon.

5) Attach your Snowflake points to the center concave area between the Teal Damask Equilateral Triangles. When attaching the Cream with Black Dot Hexagon to the Teal Equilateral Triangle, leave an open space the width of a 1/2 inch Hexagon cut in half from point to point. Once attached, the unit will lay flat. 

ATTACH ALL SIX SNOWFLAKE POINTS IN THE SAME MANNER. 

6) Appliqué your Snowflake to the center of an 18 inch square of the background fabric. Remember to appliqué the "hole" created by the placement of the Cream with Black Dot half-inch Hexagon.  Trim to 17-1/2 inches.

Enjoy! Soon it will be snowing for many of us. Enjoy it with the eyes of a child.

In the meantime, which do you prefer?  Iron-on papers or traditional papers?

Decadence Stitch-Along - Month 7- La Pass - Block 9 September 15 2019

It is September, and Fall is beginning. As I've mentioned before, I am so very much looking forward to the Fall and Winter seasons. This Round, however, I was not looking forward to. I have always been terrified of the La Passacaglia from Willyne Hammerstein's first book, Millefiori One. I have the papers but was too intimidated to give it a whirl. And choosing colors for the Rounds can be daunting. If you are not familiar with the quilt, check out one of my favorite quilts made from this pattern, the quilt made by Wendy Welsh, pictured below. Her color choices are spectacular. 

Now that I have made this Round, I have found that, although there are a large amount of pieces, it went together quite simply. Taking it one row at a time is all I needed to do. 

TIP FOR TODAY:

When selecting fabric for the La Passacaglia Round, I avoided using too many busy prints, particularly for the stars. You want to make sure they stand out from the rest of the pieces. 

IMPORTANT NOTE: Some of you may have a pattern with errors on page 3, templates. The shapes are drawn correctly; however the following corrections are necessary: 

• The one-inch 36 degree diamond at the top right is actually a one-inch 45 degree diamond. And, it requires a total of 25 pieces, not 15.

Let's get started!

FABRICS USED IN THIS MONTH'S ROUND ARE:

• Black and White Stripe
• Turquoise with Birds
• Peacock Feathers
• Hot Pink Marble
• Cream with Black Dots
• Black with Large Floral
• Black with Green Border Print
• Background Fabric

FABRIC CHOICES AND FUSSY CUTS:

(1) The center star is comprised of five Pentagons cut from the Black and White Stripe fabric. A black stripe should be placed vertically down the center of the Pentagon. The picture below shows the placement of the template on the fabric.

YOU WILL NEED TO LOCATE THIS SPOT ON THE BACK OF THE FABRIC.

YOU WILL IRON THE INTERFACE TO THIS SPOT ON THE BACK OF THE FABRIC.

YOU WILL CUT WITH A SEAM ALLOWANCE APPROXIMATELY 1/4" BEYOND THE INTERFACE.

CUT FIVE Pentagons. Sew them into a star shape. Take note of how the lines match at the seams. 

(2) Around the center star are five 36 degree Diamonds cut from the Cream with Black Dots fabric. The picture below depicts this cut. 

YOU WILL NEED TO LOCATE THIS SPOT ON THE BACK OF THE FABRIC.

YOU WILL IRON THE INTERFACE TO THIS SPOT ON THE BACK OF THE FABRIC.

YOU WILL CUT WITH A SEAM ALLOWANCE APPROXIMATELY 1/4" BEYOND THE INTERFACE.

CUT FIVE. Then sew them around the center star. Refer to the diagram on page 2 of your pattern.

(3) The next surround is comprised of ten Pentagon's cut from the Turquoise with Birds fabric. The cut should include ONLY the green ferns. The picture below shows the placement of the template on this fabric.

YOU WILL NEED TO LOCATE THIS SPOT ON THE BACK OF THE FABRIC.

YOU WILL IRON THE INTERFACE TO THIS SPOT ON THE BACK OF THE FABRIC.

YOU WILL CUT WITH A SEAM ALLOWANCE APPROXIMATELY 1/4" BEYOND THE INTERFACE.

CUT TEN. Then sew them together into a circle with one open seam. Sew this circle around the center. Some stitchers like to sew these pieces individually to the center; then sew the seams between the Pentagons. This is a fine alternative.

(4) The next surround is comprised of ten 45 degree Diamonds alternating with ten stars. The 45 degree Diamonds are fussy cut from the Peacock Feathers fabric encompassing the heart shape, as depicted in the picture below.

YOU WILL NEED TO LOCATE THIS SPOT ON THE BACK OF THE FABRIC.

YOU WILL IRON THE INTERFACE TO THIS SPOT ON THE BACK OF THE FABRIC.

YOU WILL CUT WITH A SEAM ALLOWANCE APPROXIMATELY 1/4" BEYOND THE INTERFACE.

CUT TEN. Set these aside until the completion of item #5.

(5) Each of the next ten stars is comprised of five 36 degree Jewel shapes cut from the Hot Pink Marble fabric, as depicted in the picture below. 

YOU WILL NEED TO LOCATE THIS SPOT ON THE BACK OF THE FABRIC.

YOU WILL IRON THE INTERFACE TO THIS SPOT ON THE BACK OF THE FABRIC.

YOU WILL CUT WITH A SEAM ALLOWANCE APPROXIMATELY 1/4" BEYOND THE INTERFACE.

CUT FIFTY (50) 36 degree Jewels. Sew these into sets of five connecting the short sides. They make the most perfect star. (The next time you need to appliqué a five pointed star, consider making it with EPP papers.) I found it easiest to sew one star to one Peacock Feather Diamond from item #4. Sew all your pieces into sets like this. Be careful of the direction in which the Peacock feather goes. Then connect half of them into a half circle and sew the two bottoms of each star to the center. Attach the next five in the same manner, sewing them to the center. Sew the seams between the two half circles. Attaching half at a time leaves less bulk to work around. Refer to the diagram on page 2 of your pattern.

(6) The next surround is comprised of twenty Pentagons cut from the Black and White Stripe fabric. Notice the placement of a black stripe along one side of the Pentagon and how both pieces of a set mirror each other, as pictured below. 

YOU WILL NEED TO LOCATE THIS SPOT ON THE BACK OF THE FABRIC.

YOU WILL IRON THE INTERFACE TO THIS SPOT ON THE BACK OF THE FABRIC.

YOU WILL CUT WITH A SEAM ALLOWANCE APPROXIMATELY 1/4" BEYOND THE INTERFACE.

CUT TWENTY. These will be sewn together in sets of two, one with a black stripe on the upper left side and one with a black stripe on the upper right side of the Pentagon set, matching the stripes in the seam. These sets can now be sewn between two hot pink stars. Refer to the diagram on page 2 of your pattern.

(7) The next surround is comprised of ten 45 degree Diamonds alternating with ten 45 degree Diamonds. First make ten 45 degree Diamonds from the Turquoise with Birds fabric, fussy cut from only the green ferns. The picture below depicts this cut.

YOU WILL NEED TO LOCATE THIS SPOT ON THE BACK OF THE FABRIC.

YOU WILL IRON THE INTERFACE TO THIS SPOT ON THE BACK OF THE FABRIC.

YOU WILL CUT WITH A SEAM ALLOWANCE APPROXIMATELY 1/4" BEYOND THE INTERFACE.

CUT TEN. Then sew these to the circle directly above each hot pink star. Refer to the diagram on page 2 of your pattern.

(8) The second part of the surround is comprised of ten 36 degree Diamonds cut from the Cream Black Dots fabric. The picture below depicts this cut.

YOU WILL NEED TO LOCATE THIS SPOT ON THE BACK OF THE FABRIC.

YOU WILL IRON THE INTERFACE TO THIS SPOT ON THE BACK OF THE FABRIC.

YOU WILL CUT WITH A SEAM ALLOWANCE APPROXIMATELY 1/4" BEYOND THE INTERFACE.

CUT TEN. Then sew the long sides above the pairs of striped Pentagons. Refer to the diagram on page 2 of your pattern.

(9) The outside surround is comprised of pairs of Pentagons and stars. Twenty Pentagons are cut from the Black w/Large Floral fabric. Notice in the picture of my completed La Passacaglia Round, the cuts are made with mostly pink areas BUT ALSO other areas of the fabric. Sample pictures are shown below.

YOU WILL NEED TO LOCATE THIS SPOT ON THE BACK OF THE FABRIC.

YOU WILL IRON THE INTERFACE TO THIS SPOT ON THE BACK OF THE FABRIC.

YOU WILL CUT WITH A SEAM ALLOWANCE APPROXIMATELY 1/4" BEYOND THE INTERFACE.

CUT TWENTY. Then sew them together in pairs. These pairs are sewn to the long 36 Degree Diamonds of the Round, mirroring the striped pairs of Pentagons. Refer to the diagram on page 2 of your pattern. 

(10) Finally, make ten stars, each comprising of five 36 degree Jewels. Fifty Jewels are cut from the Black with Green Border Print fabric with the black stripe running down the center of each Jewel.

YOU WILL NEED TO LOCATE THIS SPOT ON THE BACK OF THE FABRIC.

YOU WILL IRON THE INTERFACE TO THIS SPOT ON THE BACK OF THE FABRIC.

YOU WILL CUT WITH A SEAM ALLOWANCE APPROXIMATELY 1/4" BEYOND THE INTERFACE.

CUT FIFTY Jewels, carefully centering a black stripe down the center length of each Jewel as pictured below. Sew these in sets of five connecting the short sides. These stars will be sewn above the green fern 45 degree Diamonds. And then are connected on both sides to the Black w/ Large Floral Pentagons.

WE ARE NOW FINISHED WITH OUR LA PASSACAGLIA MEDALLION. Despite the fact that there were a whole lot of pieces, when broken down, this is not a difficult Round.

Next month we will be working with traditional EPP papers rather than the iron on shapes for a change. Don't forget to post your progress on Facebook and/or Instagram using hashtag #DecadenceSAL for a chance to win a monthly prize!

Decadence Stitch-Along - Month 6 - Twin Peacocks with Dresdens - Block 1 August 15 2019

It's August, and we will be finishing our sixth block, Twin Peacocks with Dresdens. This will mark our halfway mark for the Decadence blocks. The center of today's block is a Dresden Plate quilt block. This block is named after a town, Dresden, Germany, where fancily decorated fine porcelain plates were made. 

This weekend I couldn't get motivated to stitch the many projects waiting for me. I realized it was because there was no challenge to them; basting hexagons, sewing pieced hexagons together, appliquéing completed blocks/circles to backgrounds (It's no wonder I have so many UFO's!).  So, I started back to the fussy cutting of my Lucy Boston blocks with 1/2" Honeycombs and I was back in my element. The challenge and miracles of designing fussy cutting are so exciting. 

Now, let's get started.

FABRICS USED IN THIS MONTH'S ROUND ARE: 

• Black with Green Border Print
• Twin Peacocks on Black
• Hot Pink with Tiny Flowers
• Black with Large Floral
• Turquoise with Birds
• Background Fabric

FABRIC CHOICES AND FUSSY CUTS: 

1) The wedges of the Dresden are our starting point. This is a 22.5 degree wedge. You will be cutting sixteen pieces from the Black with Green Border Print fabric. The first picture below shows placement of one Dresden piece.

Notice how the thin end of the template rests on the top of a black line of the fabric. However, NOT ALL CUTS WILL REST ON THE SAME BLACK LINE. The second picture below shows how the pieces will stagger on the fabric in order for the leaf/flower sections to lie at approximately the same height. However, THE THIN END OF THE PIECE WILL ALWAYS REST ON THE TOP OF A BLACK LINE.

I can't emphasize enough the need to grab only a few threads of fabric when sewing the seams together. If you pick up too many threads, the Dresden will shrink and will not lay perfectly flat on your background. 

Fussy CUT SIXTEEN Dresden pieces from the Black with Green Border Print fabric as shown below.

YOU WILL NEED TO LOCATE THIS SPOT ON THE BACK OF THE FABRIC.

YOU WILL IRON THE INTERFACE TO THIS SPOT ON THE BACK OF THE FABRIC

YOU WILL CUT WITH A SEAM ALLOWANCE APPROXIMATELY 1/4" BEYOND THE INTERFACE.

Now, sew your sixteen basted/glued pieces together in a complete round. I like to press my seams open on Dresden Plates for a smooth finish. 

DO NOT cut your center Circles until Step 5 below.

2) Surrounding the Dresden, between points, are sixteen 1" Hexagons, made from the Peacock Twins on Black fabric. To let fussy cutting allow interest to these, I have paired my Hexagons into one peacock with half of its tree facing right and one peacock with half of its tree facing left. I have folded back the top of the tree just above the top x within a circle and I have placed the trunk of the tree at the edge of each Hexagon. (The two pieces would form a tree if they were placed against each other.)

CUT EIGHT with the Peacock facing right and CUT EIGHT with the Peacock facing left.

YOU WILL NEED TO LOCATE THIS SPOT ON THE BACK OF THE FABRIC.

YOU WILL IRON THE INTERFACE TO THIS SPOT ON THE BACK OF THE FABRIC.

YOU WILL CUT WITH A SEAM ALLOWANCE APPROXIMATELY 1/4" BEYOND THE INTERFACE.

Sew the Hexagons between the Dresden points, alternating between a left facing peacock and a right facing peacock.

3) Two one-inch equilateral Triangles will be sewn to the top of each Hexagon. These thirty-two Triangles are cut from the Turquoise with Birds fabric. The fussy cuts are placed where there are bare twiggy branches; the branches facing any direction.

CUT THIRTY-TWO TRIANGLES. When you are gluing/basting such small pieces, be careful to keep each edge perfectly straight. 

YOU WILL NEED TO LOCATE THIS SPOT ON THE BACK OF THE FABRIC.

YOU WILL IRON THE INTERFACE TO THIS SPOT ON THE BACK OF THE FABRIC.

YOU WILL CUT WITH A SEAM ALLOWANCE APPROXIMATELY 1/4" BEYOND THE INTERFACE.

Sew these thirty-two Triangles, two on top of each Hexagon.

4) Next, center the piece on your background fabric and appliqué it in place. The center hole of the Dresden should be basted close to its edge with small basting stitches. 

5) Finally we will be sewing the center Circles to the piece. You will notice on your pattern that the center of the Dresden is covered with three circles graduating smaller in size (4", 3", 2"). I have chosen to eliminate the smallest 2" Circle.

CUT ONE FOUR INCH CIRCLE from the Hot Pink with Tiny Flowers fabric. I have avoided placing any of the dark clusters on the edge as shown in the first picture below.

CUT ONE THREE-INCH CIRCLE from the Black with Large Floral fabric. The placement of my cut is shown in the second picture below.

YOU WILL NEED TO LOCATE THIS SPOT ON THE BACK OF THE FABRIC.

YOU WILL IRON THE INTERFACE TO THIS SPOT ON THE BACK OF THE FABRIC.

YOU WILL CUT WITH A SEAM ALLOWANCE APPROXIMATELY 1/4" BEYOND THE INTERFACE.

Carefully fold back and glue the seam allowance of each Circle to the interface. OR, if you are basting your pieces, you can sew small basting stitches near the outside of the seam; then gently pull your thread until the fabric fits around the Circle, adjusting the gathers. Press your Circles, carefully keeping your edges smooth.

Now individually center each Circle on your Dresden and appliqué in place. 

Please keep posting your pictures on Facebook and/or Instagram using #DecadenceSAL.  Remember, there are great prizes to win each month. Some of the blocks posted are being made with other fabrics, and their choices are spectacular. I am always inspired with ideas when seeing the handwork of other stitchers. We will meet again in September; Fall, my favorite time of year. I'm already getting my pumpkin quilts out.

Decadence Stitch-Along - Month 5 - Twenty Four Black Circles - Block 2 July 15 2019

It's July, hot humid Summer for many of us. Sitting by the pool with your EPP or sitting in air conditioning with your EPP, either way sounds good to me. We are in our fifth month of the Decadence SAL. I've seen some beautiful pictures posted. I enjoy seeing where you have changed some of my fabric choices. And I'm pleased to welcome, any time, anyone who is using their own fabric; it's so fun to see completely different fabric and color schemes; what a beautiful difference the final quilt will be. Keep posting, start posting, whenever. 

Decadence Stitch-Along - Month 4 - Lucy Boston - Block 8 June 15 2019 1 Comment

It's the fourth month of our Decadence Stitch-Along presented by Red Thread Studio. And, it's one of my all time favorite EPP blocks to do...the Lucy Boston. This pattern, generally known as the Lucy Boston, is actually the Patchwork of the Crosses, a quilt made by a woman named Lucy Boston (1892-1990) when she was in her sixties. The block can be made with different size Honeycombs. The picture below is an example of two blocks I made, one with 1" Honeycombs compared to one with 1/2" Honeycombs, with the same fabrics.  I have also used 3/4" Honeycombs, which are a delightful size. And I have made the block with numerous additional rounds of Honeycombs changing the appearance. Remember this block pattern after your quilt is finished. It's a fun block to make rather quickly; and with each new block, you can raid your stash just playing with your fabrics. This is also a good way to use your fussy cutting skills.

We are using Helen Stubbings' In the Round Block #8, which I have altered somewhat. Looking at the front page picture of your pattern, notice the four grey corners between the two pink Octagon shapes. The pattern shows a little grey animal face topped with two diamonds of another grey print. I have combined these three pieces into one single Honeycomb for design purposes. When using your iron-on interface, simply line up the three pieces (one square and two diamonds) against each other to form the Honeycomb shape. 

Before I venture into the placement of fabrics, I wanted to share with you a tip which came about from a recent question. When sewing EPP with card stock, it is easy to control your needle by leaning it on the edge of the card stock. However, when sewing with the interface, without something to lean on, it is very easy to pick up too many threads of fabric. Below are pictures of how I hold my pieces, so that I can rest my needle on my thumb, thereby controlling the depth of my stitches. I also like to make my stitches very small and tight. It is best to use 60wt, 80wt or 100wt, the finer the thread, the more invisible your stitches! 

Ready to start, here we go...

FABRICS USED IN THIS MONTH'S ROUND ARE:

• Black with Large Floral
• Cream with Drawn Flowers
• Twin Peacocks on Black
• Turquoise with Birds
• Background Fabric

ILLUSTRATION:

Below is a picture of the illustration shown on page two of your pattern broken down into a few sections. You start by sewing together the center cross. As we progress, you will see that I like to sew all my Honeycombs into their predetermined sets of two before joining them to the whole. Also notice the blackened Honeycomb, which is where I made the change to the pattern by joining a Square and two Diamonds together. (Why is it that I can keep my hands steady when I'm stitching, but when I start to write or draw, my lines are whacky?!)

 FABRIC CHOICES AND FUSSY CUTS:

1) The center is comprised of four Honeycombs, cut from the Black with Large Floral fabric. You will want this center to use all red sections of the fabric to emphasis the cross. Sew two Honeycombs into a set and repeat with the other two.Then sew these sets together matching the center seams.

YOU WILL NEED TO LOCATE THIS SPOT ON THE BACK OF THE FABRIC.

YOU WILL NEED TO IRON THE INTERFACE TO THIS SPOT ON THE BACK OF THE FABRIC.

YOU WILL CUT WITH A SEAM ALLOWANCE APPROXIMATELY 1/4" BEYOND THE INTERFACE. 

2) The next four Honeycombs are cut from the Turquoise with Birds fabric. Find the section of the fabric with a pretty fern with a background sky. Each will be different. Sew these into the four concave sections of the cross.

YOU WILL NEED TO LOCATE THIS SPOT ON THE BACK OF THE FABRIC.

YOU WILL NEED TO IRON THE INTERFACE TO THIS SPOT ON THE BACK OF THE FABRIC.

YOU WILL CUT WITH A SEAM ALLOWANCE APPROXIMATELY 1/4" BEYOND THE INTERFACE.

3) Sew eight Honeycombs cut from the Cream with Drawn Flowers fabric. These are random cuts, although I avoided large plain areas. Sew them into sets of two. Sew the first four sets around the red star points. Sew the next four sets in the corners surrounding the turquoise ferns. Then join each set to its neighbor.

YOU WILL NEED TO LOCATE THIS SPOT ON THE BACK OF THE FABRIC.

YOU WILL NEED TO IRON THE INTERFACE TO THIS SPOT ON THE BACK OF THE FABRIC.

YOU WILL CUT WITH A SEAM ALLOWANCE APPROXIMATELY 1/4" BEYOND THE INTERFACE. 

NOTE: Here is where a standard Lucy Boston block would end. The original pattern has a sashing of Honeycombs with Squares. Or you can simply appliqué these blocks to a background fabric for a stunning finish. 

4) Make nine one inch Squares from the Twin Peacocks on Black fabric, cut from the bushy tree. Sew these in the concave areas of the cream Honeycombs, three to each side, with the top of the tree pointing away from the center. DO NOT SEW ONE IN EACH CORNER AS THE ORIGINAL PATTERN SHOWS. 

YOU WILL NEED TO LOCATE THIS SPOT ON THE BACK OF THE FABRIC.

YOU WILL NEED TO IRON THE INTERFACE TO THIS SPOT ON THE BACK OF THE FABRIC.

YOU WILL CUT WITH A SEAM ALLOWANCE APPROXIMATELY 1/4" BEYOND THE INTERFACE.

5) Cut four Honeycombs from the Black with Large Floral fabric. As shown in the pictures below, do NOT try to make these solid red. Vary each cut to include other areas of the fabric along with the red; however, the red area should dominate these Honeycombs. These four Honeycombs are sewn into the four corners of your block. 

YOU WILL NEED TO LOCATE THIS SPOT ON THE BACK OF THE FABRIC.

YOU WILL NEED TO IRON THE INTERFACE TO THIS SPOT ON THE BACK OF THE FABRIC.

YOU WILL CUT WITH A SEAM ALLOWANCE APPROXIMATELY 1/4" BEYOND THE INTERFACE.

6) Fussy cut eight Honeycombs from the Twin Peacocks on Black fabric as shown below. Four will be cut facing right and four will be cut facing left. Notice that the tree is cut in half and when the right and left pieces are joined, you once again have the whole tree. It is important to note that your fabric has some rows of peacocks with more black area above the head than others. Use the areas with more black area above the head so that there is no white showing at the top. Join these in sets of two with one facing right and one facing left, creating the tree in the center. Sew these to the sides of your block with each set between the three on-point squares. 

YOU WILL NEED TO LOCATE THIS SPOT ON THE BACK OF THE FABRIC.

YOU WILL NEED TO IRON THE INTERFACE TO THIS SPOT ON THE BACK OF THE FABRIC.

YOU WILL CUT WITH A SEAM ALLOWANCE APPROXIMATELY 1/4" BEYOND THE INTERFACE.

7) The four one inch Octagons are cut from the mostly red areas of the Black with Large Floral fabric. As shown in the pictures below, do NOT try to make these solid red. Vary each cut to include other areas of the fabric along with the red; however, the red area should dominate these Octagons. Sew these Octagons to the right and left of the peacock Honeycomb sets along each side of the block and join them to their neighbors. 

YOU WILL NEED TO LOCATE THIS SPOT ON THE BACK OF THE FABRIC.

YOU WILL NEED TO IRON THE INTERFACE TO THIS SPOT ON THE BACK OF THE FABRIC.

YOU WILL CUT WITH A SEAM ALLOWANCE APPROXIMATELY 1/4" BEYOND THE INTERFACE.

8) Make twelve Squares from the Peacocks on Black fabric, cut from the bushy tree. These are exactly the same as you made in item 4 above. Sew three to each side between the concave areas of the Octagons and Honeycombs. The top of the tree points away from the center.

YOU WILL NEED TO LOCATE THIS SPOT ON THE BACK OF THE FABRIC.

YOU WILL NEED TO IRON THE INTERFACE TO THIS SPOT ON THE BACK OF THE FABRIC.

YOU WILL CUT WITH A SEAM ALLOWANCE APPROXIMATELY 1/4" BEYOND THE INTERFACE.

9) Lastly, appliqué your completed block to the center of an 18 inch square of background fabric. The square will later be trimmed to 17-1/2 inches.

NOW, OUR JUNE BLOCK #8 ROUND IS FINISHED. This, the Lucy Boston block, is so much fun to fussy cut. Spin through my Instagram feed @cheshire_cat_quilts to see many variations of the Lucy Boston. I have made many Valentine Lucy's in pink, red and white, with 3/4" Honeycombs. I have made mostly Black Halloween Lucy's with additional rounds. And, you will find various random Lucy's fussy cut just for fun. 

Don't forget to post your progress on Facebook and/or Instagram with #DecadenceSAL, to be entered into monthly drawings for some great prizes from Red Thread Studio.....And, feel free to ask any questions.